Urban Food Deserts

by Jamie Feldmar

There are reasons why deserts are sparsely populated, prime among them is their inadequate proximity to food. But a different kind of desert is threatening families in this country: food deserts, areas where there isn’t enough food available to support the population.

True, modern supermarkets are abundant with provisions—row upon row of glistening produce, neatly shrink-wrapped meat, and gourmet cheeses from all over the world—but in many parts of the country, these types of markets just don’t exist.

“The U.S. is entering a new food crisis, but it’s not an issue of production, it’s an issue of access,” said Jennifer Schiff Berg, Ph.D., director of the graduate Food Studies program at New York University. “There’s more than enough food in this country, it’s just not being distributed properly.”

In the East Harlem neighborhood of Manhattan, for example, 85% of food stores are bodegas or convenience stores, of which only 4 percent carry any kind of leafy green, according to a 2007 study conducted by the New York City Department of Health and Mental Hygiene.

A study by the Philadelphia-based Food Trust organization found that people living in food deserts are often disproportionately affected by diet-related diseases such as diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, and obesity.

Fortunately, pressure from community groups and food policy advocates led Congress to commission a USDA study of food deserts in the 2008 Farm Bill. But while neighborhood organizations, policy makers, business leaders, and other stakeholders work to improve access to food in these areas, residents still have to make do with what’s available at the corner store.

I visited a bodega in a local food desert to get a better understanding of how difficult it can be to cull together a relatively nutritious meal without much in the way of fresh fruits and vegetables. While it required some foraging and imagination, the result was surprisingly delicious (see recipe).


Bushwick Bodega Rice and Beans

To create a healthy meal out of convenience store offerings, look for nutritious staples like rice and beans. I was lucky to end up at 443 Bushwick, a market with a small refrigerated section where I found chorizo and a tomato. For a total of $12.67, I was able to buy the ingredients for this dish, which serves 4 people.

1 box yellow rice
2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil, divided
1 can mixed vegetables, drained
1 package chorizo
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1/2 medium white onion, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 can black beans, drained
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 tomato, diced
1 avocado, cubed (optional)

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add rice and 1 tablespoon of the oil. Boil for 1 minute, reduce heat to low, and cover. Cook until water is absorbed, about 25 minutes. In the last minute of cooking, add the can of mixed vegetables, stirring gently to incorporate.

In a separate pan, stir chorizo with 1 tablespoon each of water and vinegar. Cover and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, turning links occasionally to ensure even browning. Remove cover and cook for an additional 15 minutes.

In a medium saucepan, heat the remaining oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, stirring occasionally until lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the beans, 1/2 cup water, and the oregano. Bring to a boil, add the tomatoes, and reduce heat. Simmer uncovered for about 10 minutes, or until tomatoes have softened.

To serve, place rice in the middle of a platter and spoon the beans on top. Add sliced chorizo and avocado on the side.


This article originally appeared in the April/May 2009 issue of JBF Notes, the James Beard Foundation member newsletter. Don't miss out on future articles; become a member today!