Last month our favorite Beard House dishes came from a Blackberry Farm alum, a Boston-based Rising Star nominee, and the team from Napa's legendary La Toque. Below, our editors' picks for the best of November.
Braised Local Pheasant Cavatelli with Sumac, Stone Fruits, and Mustard Green Gremolata / Tuscany Meets Carolina
I was curious to check out this menu from Adam Cooke, who spent several years at the somewhat monastic kitchen of Blackberry Farm. Now executive chef at Restaurant 17 in Travelers Rest, South Carolina, Cooke is working from a more global palette. My favorite dish, the pasta course, was sealed by its sauce: a reduced pheasant stock, lifted by combination of rosé, sumac berries, and spices.
—Anna Mowry, Senior Editor
York Harbor Lobster with Hand-Rolled Gnocchi, Cauliflower, Roe, and Pancetta / The New England Kitchen
It’s no secret that New Englanders know their way around a lobster, but Boston’s Jeremy Sewell took his crustacean know-how to new heights with this decadent Beard House dish. He folded meaty chunks of rich, York Harbor lobster into a hearty mixture of hand-rolled gnocchi, pan-seared cauliflower, briny roe, crispy pancetta, and bright microgreens. The balance of flavors and textures was spot on, and the luxe factor was through the roof.
—Elena North-Kelly, Senior Editor
Skuna Bay Salmon Confit with Roasted Apples, Onions, and Beurre Rouge / Pinot Sensation
I’ve always been the black sheep in my family as a New York Jew who doesn’t like salmon, but La Toque’s Ken Frank may have finally converted me with this dish. The fish was amazingly flaky and tender, with a delicate flavor enhanced by the sweet fruit and onions, and sitting atop the buttery sauce that was rich without overtaking the dish. If I could get this with my bagel every weekend, I’d pass over the cream cheese every time.
—Maggie Borden, Assistant Editor
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