Ramps, the petite, wild leeks that peek out of the earth in early spring, may be the food lover's biggest morale booster. When the first harvest appears at the markets, it signals that the rest of the season's bounty will soon be within reach.
Here, ramp leaves and bulbs are sautéed with pancetta to make a racy sauce for bucatini—a round, spaghetti-thick pasta with a hole threaded through its center.
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