We see a lot of chefs making panna cotta at the James Beard House. It's easy to see why: since the dish requires several hours of chilling in order for the gelatin to set, it's an obvious make-ahead dessert for a large crowd. At Sean Woods's recent Beard House event, he brought panna cotta over to the savory side, combining the requisite cream with a premium ricotta and some truffle oil. To offset the richness, Woods garnishes the starter with crisp lamb's lettuce and matchsticks of quick-pickled radishes.