Celeriac Galette

Possibly the most unsung of all vegetables, celeriac’s gnarly, dirty facade tends to turn people off. This is a shame, considering everything underneath that brown, creviced skin is dense with satisfying texture and flavor. Celeriac—also called celery root—is a kind of celery (there are many wonderful varieties of this common biennial) prized for its enlarged root versus its stalks or leaves.

Although this root is firm, it can be sliced or shredded thin and eaten raw, preferably well dressed in a strong vinaigrette. It also yields a phenomenally silky soup and an addictive mash (add horseradish, please). However, in my mind, celeriac is its sweetest, most earthy self when caramelized in a pan or hot oven.

When cooked, celery root grounds our energy and warms our systems. Like celery, it supports the nervous system, stimulates the appetite, and aids in digestion.

You will spot celeriac intermittently throughout the fall and winter. Purchase small, heavy roots; the larger, lighter ones can be pithy inside. Store celeriac with the skin on, in the refrigerator, for up to one week after purchase. Peel and discard the skin (and any nooks holding dirt) before using it. If you find celeriac with the leaves still attached, use the slightly bitter greens in soups, stews, or stock.

There are several classic recipes for this root that are wonderful and warrant mention here:

• Celeriac remoulade—raw matchsticks of celeriac tossed with mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, and black pepper
• Celeriac mash/purée—especially in tandem with short ribs and crunchy bitter greens
• Potato and celeriac gratin
• Celeriac soup—finished with crème fraîche, black pepper, and chervil or chives

NOTE: This basic savory galette can be adapted for a variety of roots and tubers; simply adjust the quantity of liquid and cooking time based on how fibrous the vegetable is.