Homegrown Fried Chicken

• 2 quarts whole milk
• 1 onion, chopped
• 3 to 4 garlic heads, hit once with a hammer or the side of a heavy knife
• 3 tablespoons fresh thyme
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• One (2 to 3 pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme
• 1 teaspoon toasted, ground yellow mustard seeds
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1/2 cup lardo
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

To make the brine, bring 1 quart of milk to a simmer in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove pan from the heat. Add the onion, garlic, and thyme. Set aside to come to room temperature. Season to taste with salt and pepper, using enough salt so that the milk tastes a little like seawater.

When the milk is nearly cool, stir in the remaining 1 quart cold milk. Transfer the milk brine to a dish large enough to hold the chicken pieces. Add the chicken, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 4 hours. Drain the chicken, discard the brine, and pat the chicken dry.

To make the flour mix, mix together the flour, onion powder, garlic powder, thyme, and mustard seeds in a shallow dish. Season with salt and pepper. Put the chicken pieces in the flour. Turn to coat. Let the coated chicken pieces sit for 10 to 15 minutes.

To fry the chicken, heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, heat the lard until liquid and so hot it is nearly smoking. Add the butter to the skillet. Using tongs, lay the chicken pieces in the hot fat, which should come about halfway up the sides of the chicken.

Cover the skillet. Let the chicken fry for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn the chicken pieces. Watch the chicken carefully, turning as needed to brown evenly on both sides and cook through, about 25 to 30 minutes total. (The smaller pieces might be cooked through in 20 minutes.) Adjust the heat if necessary to prevent scorching, but try to keep it as high as you can.

Lift the chicken pieces from the hot fat as they are cooked. Drain on clean kitchen towels or paper towels. Serve hot.