Ragù Bolognese

• 1/2 pound bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 2 carrots, finely chopped
• 2 ribs of celery, finely chopped
• 2 medium-sized onions, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, finely minced
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground pepper
• 1 pound lean ground beef
• 1/2 pound chicken livers, trimmed of membranes and finely chopped
• 1/4 cup tomato paste
• 1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken or beef broth
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 cup heavy cream (optional)
• 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped (optional)
• 1 pound pasta such as malfaldine
• Freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese for serving

In a large pot over medium heat, cook bacon until fat has rendered and bacon is crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate and remove all but 2 tablespoons rendered fat; reserve bacon fat for future use or alternative method below. Add the carrots, celery, onions, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, 3/4 teaspoon black pepper, and sauté until softened, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the ground beef until browned, breaking it up with a fork. Add the chicken livers and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook until they lose their pinkish color, 2 to 3 minutes. Mix in the tomato paste, broth, wine, nutmeg, and rendered bacon. Bring the sauce to a boil and cover. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently until tender, about 40 minutes.

Uncover and stir in heavy cream, if desired. Some people prefer the sauce as it is, others like the cream flavor. Heat until warmed through. Stir in chopped parsley just before serving. Serve with any shape pasta you desire, accompanied by freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese.

Alternative method:
In a large pot over medium heat, cook bacon until fat has rendered and bacon is crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer bacon to a paper towel–lined plate and remove all but 2 tablespoons rendered fat. Add the carrots, celery, onions, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, 3/4 teaspoon black pepper, and sauté until softened, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the ground beef until browned, breaking it up with a fork. Mix in the tomato paste, broth, wine, nutmeg, and rendered bacon. Bring the pot to a boil and cover. Reduce heat to low, simmer gently until tender, about 40 minutes.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat add 1 tablespoon reserved bacon fat. When fat is warmed, add chopped chicken liver and break up using a wooden spatula and fry until crisp, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the fried chicken livers to the ragù. Stir in heavy cream, if desired. Heat until warmed through. Stir in chopped parsley just before serving. Serve with any shape pasta you desire, accompanied by freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese.

Adapted from James Beard's original recipe. Recipe photo and food styling by Judy Kim.