Ramps with Spinach and Bacon

• 1 pound ramps, washed well

• 1 tablespoon canola oil

• 1 teaspoon brown mustard seeds

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• 1 1/2 cups bacon, diced

• 1 teaspoon chopped peeled fresh ginger

• 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh green chile

• 1 1/2 pounds spinach, washed well, tough stems discarded, and leaves torn into large pieces

• Freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste

Trim root ends from ramps. Cut bulbs from leaves. If bulbs are small, simply smash them with the back of a large heavy knife. If bulbs are large, cut them crosswise into thin slices.



Heat oil in a large skillet over moderately high heat until shimmering. Add mustard seeds and cook, stirring, until they pop and are fragrant. Add cumin seeds and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the bacon and cook until it starts to turn color, about 2 minutes. Stir in ramp bulbs, ginger, and chile, and cook 1 minute. Add ramp leaves and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes. Add spinach and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook until spinach is wilted, about 2 minutes more.