Nothing against rhubarb pie, but we appreciate ways to enjoy these tart, crimson stalks that don't require a sugar bombardment. To wit: this barbecue sauce from Idaho-based chef Adam Hegsted harnesses rhubarb's puckery flavor without maxing out on sweetness. You have to hot-smoke the rhubarb on your stovetop in order to produce the smoky undertones in the condiment, but all you need for the technique is a large pot, a wire rack that fits inside, and some wood chips.